8 things to check
| What to check | A good answer | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Auction access | They explain which auction or export channel they bid through | Japan's big wholesale auctions are members-only, so every importer goes through one |
| 2. The auction sheet | You see the original sheet and a translation of the inspector's notes before any bid | The sheet is the main record of the car's condition, and each auction house uses its own legend |
| 3. Who approves the bid | You approve the exact car and the maximum bid | Bidding takes seconds. The limit has to be yours and set before the car runs |
| 4. An itemized estimate | Every cost stage is its own line, with what's included and what isn't written down | The winning bid is only the first of six cost stages |
| 5. Eligibility check | They confirm the build month, not just the model year, and ask about engine swaps | The 25-year rule counts from the build month, and a swap needs its own EPA review |
| 6. Where the price stops | They say whether the total ends at the port or at your door, titled | A "landed price" often leaves out delivery, Texas tax, title and registration |
| 7. Title help | They can walk you through your state's inspection and title steps | The car isn't road-legal until it's titled and registered |
| 8. Proof | Reviews you can read, cars they've brought in that you can see, and a person who answers the phone | It's the only way to check the first seven before you pay |
How we built this list: these are the points where an import most often goes wrong, taken from the stages in our Japan to Texas import guide and our import cost guide. No importer is ranked or named here. Use the list on anyone, including us.